Testing Makeup

Practise of the make up unfortunately my model didn’t have time for me to practise the make up on her face so I practised it on my model

however this will look different on her skin as it is darker. The gold will show up more and the red won’t pop out as much. I think I’m going to make the lip slightly more subtle just so it doesn’t take away from the eyes. Its hard to tell without doing it on my models face.picture007 picture009

Fixing Face piece: problem solving

picture010 When testing the makeup on my model there were problems when it came to keeping the nose place in the right piece. as it kept slipping down her face. I couldn’t tighten it too much across, the face as it would compress on her cheeks, which would be uncomfortable after wearing for a substantial amount of timepicture011 I tried applying Prosaide to the piece and gluing it that way, but because of the nature of the beads and the location of where it is, it soon fell off. picture014 I then deicded to experiment with using sculpt gel as a glue. Mixing a small amount together and placing it under the nose piece like a glue and waited for it to set. picture017This worked well as it held in place even when pulling at it as shown in the picture below. However it looked slightly messy as you could see the sculpt gel underneath. Therefore I looked into applying the sculpt gel over the top of the piece to create the illusion that it was going through the skin like it was pierced. The results were good and look cleaner once colour to match the rest of the skin. picture018picture019me pulling at the piece testing its strength

Testing strength of Hair

picture020  I knew that I wanted to Have this shrunken head held by its hair in the photograph. As I was punching hairs into the silicone I thought it was important to test the strength of the hair’s in order to picture021 make sure they didn’t fall out in the photoshoot and would last all day being held from it.

The first time I tried this the hairs weren’t punched in far enough and most of the hair go pulled out. Luckily it was tested before hand which meant that I could punch them back in again. If this was to have happened on the shoot there would be serious problems.

The second time of punching the hairs in I pushed them in deeper as well as scattering more hairs around. This way it produced the strength needed in order to hold the heavy silicone up. The other shrunken head is just going to be held so I don’t have to worry as much.

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Hair Punching and Sewing eyes

20131202_190212 20131202_190131 I wanted the hair to stick up in the middle of the head almost like a troll doll so that when it was help in the photo shoot it would retain that hair shape I practised a few times in directing the hair and managed to get it to go the way I wanted, with some difficulty. After a while I got the hang of it and   it soon became quicker20131202_190105  Sewing up the mouth and eyes, I used garden string or what is also know as hairy string. This was used because of the rustic feel to it which was a closer reference to what they actually used when sewing up the features.  I purchased a sewing needle that was designed for sewing round objects, this worked really well as it was easy to pierce through the silicone and out the other side. A task that would be nearly impossible using a normal needle. The only issue I had was threading the needle as I had to untwist the string in order to get a thinner piece thus making it week-er and susceptible  to breaking.

The eyes where sew up according to the design.45

Silicone cast out

Teeth coloured in to look old and decayed Piece is coloured almost to a caramel colour this is match into my model skin without looking too grey.

The final piece came out well with a thing cap plastic. This shall help in the blending and making sure there are no vis-able edges where there are not meant to be.20131202_173748

20131202_173739 20131202_173753Can see the texture and fine lines that I sculpted into the piece so that it blends in with the natural skins texture

Filling and colouring flat piece

Appliance such as these can be applied without any pre-pigmentation however it does mean more work when colouring them later. So with this one i’m going to colour it using oil paints. You can get silicone pigments for standard flesh tones, however as my model has quite a unique skin tone that I haven’t worked with before the oil paint method can get a closer tone. I spoke to Kristyan Mallett asking him what the best method is for applying flat pieces to darker skin tones and he said to pre-colour them a caramel colour. This will stop them from becoming to ash in tone and looking grey.

First process was to colour the teeth this meant mixing up some platsilgel 10 without any deadener this is so that they are harder and move like a sold object.

When colouring it I mixed white oil paint with ochre paint, so that they don’t look too white I added alot of pigment because I didn’t want the teeth to be translucent 20131128_153954
20131128_153958 20131128_160137 20131128_144959

20131128_172956Filling the just the teeth was difficult as the silicone wanted to run into other parts. If I stretched the mould apart it ruined the cap plastic This is turn meant that I just had to take my time using a wooden spatula broken in half. Using the oil paint slightly retards the cure of the silicone. Which was good for this process as it allowed more time to fill the holes.

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20131204_165224 20131204_165227 20131119_145525 skintest

Holes filled with creamy coloured platsil gel 10

When it came to colouring the silicone for the main flesh part I took the colour match silicone that I tested on my model at the beginning of the project. This way I could keep adding various shades of green, purple, brown and yellow oil paints,

I also added in green and red flock, as after to talking to Pete Tindal he spoke about how darker skins have a lot of green and yellow undertones.

For the main silicone piece I used plat-gel 00 deadened by 10%

one thing that I found difficult was filling the overflow areas around my moulds that are intended for edges to hold on to, to save the thing edges of the cap plastic from getting damaged. Here is the image from the previous post showing the colour matching. As stated in the post this is to ash in tone for my model, so when matching to it I remembered to add slightly more warmer tones, to avoid it appearing grey.

 

Costume Skirt

20131204_201742 20131204_201752 I couldn’t get a costume student for this project, which I wasn’t too worried about because I knew the kind of thing I wanted and it would just be a case of putting pieces together. This skirt was part of African type top brought from a charity shop, which I just cut up and then figured out how to place it around the body the best way which had the aesthetic I was looking for.  I wrapped it around my housemate to see how it photgraphed. The draping worked well and achieved the african/southamerican look.20131204_201756 20131204_201800 7 9 8The bottom of it is painted with black paint and then sprayed painted gold so that it would match in with the gold of the make-up design and props in background.

 

Filling the moulds

After lifting the flat pieces off of the original face, they were then placed onto this board.

When I have made flat pieces in the past I use to only build one wall around the edges but after looking through the Todd Debrecini book it showed to build a small wall round it first  that is almost the same level as the piece. Then build a higher wall round both of them. When silicone is poured into the mould it will flood into the second wall and act as a holding area when applying the prosthetic protecting the fine cap plastic edging

20131124_23230820131125_132852Heres the two walls built round, take note of the difference in heights of the walls20131125_132848 

Close up of final sculpt can see the delicate texture put in to it

Moulds where then filled with Plat gel 10 with no deadener. My silicone is about a year old and has been stored in a cold location, which meant that it had become really thick and glupey which made it hard to mix. To over come this blue pigment was added into part B of the silicone so that when all the blue was mixed I could tell that both parts were equally mixed and therefore it would properly cure

 

Both moulds together took 700grms 350 of A and 350 of B

20131125_142656Final cast out, a few issues with getting the teeth out of the mould but luckily as it is flexible I was able to just bend the mould and pop them out. 20131126_123035

Casting Out Silcone

20131119_223115 20131119_182812 20131119_182826 Filling the mould with silicone, I weighed the amount of clay that I used when sculpting this, too see how much silicone I would need however  this calculation must have been wrong as when I was pouring the silicone it was soon apparent that I had not mixed enough, luckily I had a friend helping me out who could hold the mould and keep the silicone moving inside whilst I quickly mixed up some more

From this panic of not having enough silicone, the face came out with different shades, This wasn’t that visible to the eye but when photographed there was a clear line visible. I wasn’t too concerned about this as I knew I was going to be painting it anyway, but for future reference I should pay attention as to how much silicone I need.there are small air bubbles around the nose the ones on the mouth are intended to be there because that it where the lips will be sewn. However the nose ones were because of the problem with the mould   20131119_182602

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20131119_150155 two different silicone colours20131119_150158

Painting

20131127_165227 Painting the second silicone head. This one isn’t pigmented as dark as this time I used just the silicone pigments rather than the oil paints, because I found they retarded the cure of the silicone slightly. Same issue as when I filled the mould with silicone I didn’t leave a hole to place it on a bust stand which made painting difficult

First layer being painted over, adding yellow undertones to the skin

20131127_16521710I did the same technique as that worked well by stippling on the colour as nobody’s skin is one flat colour. This way I could build up layers of paint. I made the paint in the same way by mixing silicone, oil paint and naptha( lighter fluid)

11See how the stippling has created nice patterens and textures on the skin.